Not All Vitamin C Is Created Equal: A Guide to Understanding Formulas, Stability and Results
- Danielle
- Nov 28, 2025
- 3 min read
Vitamin C is one of the most researched, most recommended, and most misunderstood ingredients in skincare. The problem isn’t Vitamin C itself — it’s the sheer number of unstable, overly-strong, poorly formulated products on the market that oxidise before you’ve even opened the bottle, or that irritate the skin long before they improve it.
Vitamin C works. But only when the formula does.
This guide breaks down what actually matters when choosing a Vitamin C serum, and why the right formulation can make all the difference to your results.
1. The Form Confusion: L-Ascorbic Acid vs Derivatives
Most people don’t realise that “Vitamin C” isn’t a single ingredient — it’s a category.
L-Ascorbic Acid (LAA)
The purest, most well-studied form
Highly effective but highly unstable
Requires a low pH (acidic environment) to penetrate the skin
Known for irritation in sensitive or compromised skin
Oxidises rapidly when exposed to light, heat or air
LAA can deliver brilliant results — but only in very carefully stabilised formulas, and even then, the clock starts ticking the moment you open the bottle.
Stabilised Derivatives (like Ascorbyl Glucoside, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate etc.)
More stable, less prone to oxidation
Gentler, making them better for sensitive skin
Still convert into active Vitamin C within the skin
Work at skin-friendly pH levels
Offer antioxidant protection + brightening without the harshness
Translation: derivatives may be less “sexy” in marketing terms, but they’re far more reliable in real-world conditions — especially in Australian heat.
Blissology uses: a stabilised Vitamin C derivative chosen for longevity, gentleness, and consistent performance within a multi-active serum.
2. Stability Is Everything (And Most Serums Fail This Test)
Even the best Vitamin C won’t work if it oxidises. When Vitamin C oxidises, your serum:
loses potency
turns yellow or orange
can promote free radical activity rather than neutralise it
may irritate the skin
Factors that destroy Vitamin C quickly:
sunlight
heat
oxygen
moisture
poorly chosen packaging
high percentages without supporting antioxidants
This is why formula architecture matters more than the percentage on the label.
A stable 10% Vitamin C will outperform an unstable 20% every time.
3. The “Percentage Myth” — Bigger Is Not Better
Many consumers assume a higher percentage means faster or better results.In reality, it often means:
more irritation
more barrier disruption
quicker oxidation
poorer wearability under sunscreen
What matters most:
stability
penetration
supporting actives
pH
formulation design
An elegant 8–12% in a stable derivative can outperform a harsh 20% LAA serum for the vast majority of people.
4. Texture & Delivery System: The Part No One Talks About
Texture determines two crucial things:
First: Absorption
A serum must absorb quickly enough to be effective but not so rapidly that it causes surface irritation.
Second: Compatibility With Other Products
Heavy, oily Vitamin C formulas can interfere with:
sunscreen film formation
makeup application
water-based serums layered underneath
the stability of other actives
Lightweight, water-based serums tend to deliver the most consistent experience, especially in hot or humid conditions.
5. Packaging Matters (More Than You Think)
Vitamin C hates:
clear glass
wide openings
droppers that allow constant air exposure
warm bathrooms
Dark, airtight, pump-based packaging protects potency and prolongs formula integrity.
If a Vitamin C serum turns orange… you’re applying oxidised product to your face.
6. What You Can Realistically Expect From a Good Vitamin C
Used consistently, a properly stabilised Vitamin C serum will support:
brighter, more even skin tone
reduced appearance of pigmentation
improved antioxidant protection (especially under SPF)
smoother texture over time
stronger barrier function when combined with lipids or niacinamide
Vitamin C isn’t magic - it's chemistry. And chemistry thrives on consistency.
Where our Super-C Serum Fits In
Blissology’s Super-C Serum is formulated deliberately around:
a stabilised, skin-friendly Vitamin C derivative
antioxidant partners that protect the formula from oxidation
a lightweight, fast-absorbing texture suited to Australian heat
a comfortable pH that respects the barrier
a blend designed for daily AM wear under SPF
The result is a Vitamin C serum that performs without sting, slide, or instability - the kind you actually finish instead of abandoning halfway through.
The Takeaway
Not all Vitamin C is created equal. The right form, the right stability, the right architecture - these determine whether your serum is transformative or just expensive orange water.
When you understand the science, choosing the right Vitamin C becomes simple.
